Sunday, November 22, 2009

CHEFS CORNER


While surf'in the web, I came across this interesting piece produced by "THE FUTURE" a handsomely well produced website authored by a group of friends who self promote and offer their own unique and personal flavor on culture, lifestyle and media. I think the website is fabulous overall but I take issue with their lack of fact checking and research of the material they present. "Opinions" are not necessarily factually accurate and are subject to personal interpretation. What is not subject to personal interpretation or conjecture are technical facts and historical precedence. One plus one equals two no matter what one thinks personally.

As a professional classically trained chef, I was surprised they did not edit the piece for technical and historical accuracy. Esthetically it doesn't matter because the average subscriber most likely will not know right from wrong anyway, but for the culinary professionals who watch the piece, it is an insult from someone calling themselves a chef. Similar to a doctor diagnosing you with a common cold but treating you with a shot of penicillin in the rear.
Pastry Arts are a highly specialized skill set within Culinary Arts with it's own techniques and terminology. Chef Love references the butter and sugar to be beaten together and emulsified with the eggs. The order of the ingredients is correct but the process is not. Anytime butter, sugar and eggs are combined in this style it is known as "the creaming method." The creaming method is one of several ways that you can mix ingredients to make a cake or cookies. It is the most prevalent method used because the resulting cake will be light and tender. If in fact the butter, sugar and eggs are beaten, the results will be grainy and thick. Yes! Now you know why your last cake was so thick and heavy. Another golden rule of baking "always combine the dry ingredients" before adding the wet. The spot also failed to mention a critically important step. The oven must be preheated before placing the batter in the oven. If the oven is not properly heated, the leavening agents in the batter will not properly activate and the results will be flat. Eggs require steam to rise and agents such as baking soda or power require water and heat.

"Brulee" means burnt cream. The chef incorrectly referred to the method/ technique of burning sugar as Brulee. The technique is caramelization. When ones refers to brulee most often it describes the classic french dessert. Creme Brulee is a classic dish of smooth custard, with a CARAMELIZED SUGAR topping. I am looking over my notes taken in Pastry Arts 101 during Culinary school. The chef incorrectly states he brulees the bananas when in fact he is caramelizing the sugar topping. If the sugar is caramelized to the point it melts and forms a solid sheet on top of the bananas it may be called "bananas brulee."

To the novice these are minor insignificant points but one must remember there is always a part of the audience that knows the proper and correct style and technique. Television, movies and talk shows all use fact checkers to avoid these types of errors. Here is a fabulous simple pound cake recipe to enjoy this holiday season.

SIMPLE POUND CAKE RECIPE
Preheat oven to 340 degrees F. Spray and line 2 8" cake pans.
BUTTER 1 1/4 lbs.
SUGAR 1 1/2 lbs.
LEMON RIND, grated 1 oz.
SALT 1/4 oz.
CAKE FLOUR 1 3/4 lbs.
BAKING POWDER 3/4 oz.
EGGS 2 lbs.
Cream together the butter, sugar, lemon rind and salt, set aside
Sift together the cake flour and baking powder
Alternately add the eggs and flour mixture to the bowl in thirds on low speed
Add half the batter to each of cake pans and bake for 20 to 30 minutes or until cake springs back when lightly touched in the center.

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