THE CHEF'S CORNER

Mommas way gets a makeover!
As a Chef and Caterer one of the most challenging tasks I encounter with clients is the selection of specific dishes. Not because of choices or ideas but personal preference and concept. The simplest of dishes can blossom complex and potential disasters if not well researched in advance. A middle aged woman of color comes into the shop and requests “Macaroni & Cheese” for a party of 40. This seems like a simple and easy order. After closer examination I immediately realize the booker did not fully qualify the order. Does the customer mean Traditional Baked Macaroni & Cheese that costs considerably more than its contemporary counterpart of Macaroni with Cheese Sauce? Will it be served as a side dish or as an entrée item? These questions are illustrations of the traditional vs. contemporary.
Traditional Baked Macaroni & Cheese is very rich with fresh eggs, a minimum of three types of sharp cheeses and fresh cream in addition to the macaroni. Developed on the plantations of the deep south during the slave era it was a casserole that was prepared on Sundays and special occasions. Due to the richness, time consuming preparation and cost Baked Macaroni and Cheese was a much celebrated treat. Many healthcare professionals and food manufacturers have condemned the traditional dish as unhealthy and life threatening.
Macaroni with Cheese Sauce is a contemporary cost and time saving interpretation. Most often it consists of milk, one type of cheese and flour in addition to the macaroni. It can be prepared in 1/3 the time it takes to make the traditional version. The cost effectiveness and preparation has made this version very popular amongst cooks, schools and families on the go. It is heavily advertised by food manufacturers that market quick fix boxed and canned versions. Healthcare professionals are not excited about the contemporary version but prefer it over the traditional.
There is a generation of people that have never eaten the traditional version. My customer was middle aged and may have meant the baked or contemporary versions as a New Yorker. After calling and personally speaking with her I learned she wanted the traditional but decided to order a pan of each. When considering serving traditional dishes and cuisines it is very important to always consider who the guests are, their ages, palates and your expectations of the final dish.
Here are recipes for the traditional and contemporary versions!
Traditional Southern Baked Macaroni & Cheese
Serves 12-14 people3 ea. 1 pound boxes Elbow Macaroni – small
cooked and drained completely
9 Whole Eggs, beaten
1 cup Heavy Cream
½ cup Evaporated Milk
1 tablespoon Dry Mustard
to taste Kosher Salt
to taste White Pepper
½ teaspoon Granulated Garlic
1 pound New York Extra Sharp Yellow Cheddar—grated or shredded
½ pound New York Sharp White Cheddar— grated or shredded
½ pound Mozzarela-- grated or shredded

Cook macaroni until it is JUST getting soft (too soft and you'll have mush) Drain the water completely and set aside. While the macaroni is cooking put together the royale by beating together the eggs, heavy cream, milk and the dry ingredients. Oil the casserole dish (glass Pyrex or Corning Ware Casserole works best). In a large bowl combine the macaroni, the royale and the cheese and layer into the casserole. Cover with the casserole lid or aluminum foil will work. Bake for about 25 to 35 minutes or until the center is soft set, remove the lid or foil and sprinkle cheese on top for garnish and bake uncovered an additional 6-12 minutes until done in the center.

Contemporary Macaroni & Cheese Sauce
Serves 12-14 people
2 ea. 1 pound boxes Elbow Macaroni - small
1 ½ pounds Velveeta Cheese
1 ½ cans Evaporated Milk
¾ cup Real Butter
½ gallon Whole Milk
7 ½ teaspoons Kosher Salt
4 ½ teaspoons White Pepper

While cooking macaroni JUST until getting soft (too soft and you'll have mush), cut Velveeta into small pieces and get other ingredients open and ready to go. Drain Macaroni and return to large pot over medium-low heat.
Add Velveeta Cheese, butter and evaporated milk.
Important: KEEP STIRRING OR IT WILL SCORCH.
Add whole milk to the level where the macaroni is just covered.
Keep stirring until all cheese and butter is totally melted and mixed. Turn off heat. Add salt and pepper to taste.