Wednesday, December 31, 2008

THE AFRO BRAZILIAN EXPERIENCE

Salvador da Bahia, Brazil South America December 2008Everything about this years birthday & holiday adventure was a dream come true! My flights departed late but what else would I expect from American Airlines. Somehow we landed in Miami early and the transfer was a minor challenge as I had to change terminals. I felt as if I were walking to Brazil but I finally reached gate E31 with two hours to spare so I charged my phone, DVD player (anyone who knows me well will tell you I love my cooking, travel and gadgets in that order) and checked my email. Finally we boarded flight 980 bound for Salvador da Bahia on the central horn of Brazil. We departed an hour late. I nibbled on the horribly mushy chicken pasta dinner (yes chefs are very critical and brutal to garbage passed off as food, especially on a plane at 10:30 at night) before I fell into a deep sleep across 2 seats. In one of my tosses or turns I noticed a streak of fiery red color in the distance out the window I quickly realized it was sunrise. It was a beautiful sight to behold. Shortly after the attendants came by with a cold muffin, a mini package of raisins and an apple. I opted for the ‘virgin bloody mary’ mix to finish off the breakfast box. We landed 10 minutes late. I whisked through customs and immigration so quickly I wondered if they thought I was a celebrity or royalty. 20 minutes after landing I was handing over my luggage to the hotel driver. We whisked in and out of the city center with the precision of an expert marksman.As we entered “Porto da Barra” I wondered if the driver had driven me to the wrong place or had I made a mistake converting the price of the hotel. Porto da Barra as it turns out is a high end beach community. All of the hotels and pousadas (generally mid to low end motels and hostels) are beach front properties. Shocked is an under statement as my head spun 100 miles an hour. It appeared that none of the guys had shirts on and most of them were in tight Speedo briefs. The women for the most part wore strings tied around them masked as bikinis. We pulled into the driveway of the "Grande Hotel da Bahia" and I panicked. I couldn’t imagine this hotel cost less than $100.00 USD per night for an ocean view suite with balcony, free breakfast and free internet service. As I cautiously registered in Spanish, one word of portugese and a smattering of English I realized the rate was correct and the hotel was simply better than I had expected.The pool, rooms and restaurant were all fabulous. I stood on the balcony overlooking the Atlantic Ocean truly thankful for that turkey and all the stuffing! I slept peacefully for a few hours and then ran out for a bite on the beach (double cheeseburger and pineapple milkshake R$6,00 or $3.00 USD) then returned to the hotel. Wow, I thought I was doing something by waking up at 4:30 AM to get out and catch an early start before everything came to life. Can you believe it the sun was already peaking its head above the horizon and there were people on the street and beach already or basically all night, so much for the “get an early start theory”. I spent a lot of time standing on the balcony stunned by the beauty of the rising & setting suns, the beautiful bodies on the beach and gagging at the heat. I had read so much about the hotel's breakfast buffet in reviews and blogs. Refreshing that everything that was written was true. The restaurant itself was very simple, sand white and beige with a very upscale museum ambience created by simple but magnificent black & white African paintings and pieces of art on one of the walls. The opposite wall was completely mirrored giving the room an illusion of added width. The white draped buffet table ran down the length of the room. It was filled with international and local specialties. The variety was great and even better for free including an array of freshly baked mini and full sized pastries, tarts and breads. There were several varieties of charcuterie, cereals, tropical and domestic fruits. Freshly prepared eggs, coffee, tropical juices and many jellies, jams and honeys completed the table. The overall quality of the buffet and service reminded me of Sunday Brunches at the nicer hotels in Manhattan and the Hamptons. Absolutely not typical or expected of an ala carte beach front hotel buffet, you know the ones that define free breakfast as semi frozen muffins, cold cereal and paper cups of muddy water masqueraded as coffee. After 2 plates of fluffy bright yellow scrambled eggs, three different hams, Brazilian coffee and fresh orange juice (all served on beautiful white polished china) each morning I explored different sections of the city, first staying very close to the hotel and each day venturing further and further away from the hotel and Barra. Farol Da Barra -the lighthouse- is the local cruising spot in Barra, it was interesting and mostly very upscale Europeans on vacation. Cruising in Bahia is very sophisticated. The guys are very well groomed, educated and huge flirts but very hesitant to jump in the sack. It is very easy to laugh, joke, drink and kiss most of the night and still not hit pay dirt. The lighthouse itself is the typical tourist attraction, intersting with a nice museum on the ground floor.Tee shirts, drinks and souvenirs.Further away is the district of Largo do Pelourinho the party place and major non beach tourist spot. The center focal point to start from is the Palacio Do Rio Brancio very impressive in the Praca de Se (city square)is the seat of government and municipal centre.The famous Lacerda Elevator the city's largest landmark is also located in the square.The elevator divides the upper and lower cities. The upper city being the seat of local government and middle to high class neighborhoods and the lower city being home to the traditional ways of life, economy and simple wages."Mercado Modelo" is an old covered market set on it's own by the old harbour, actross the street from the foot of the Lacerda Elevator in the lower city. It houses a huge traditional and very ethnic crafts always crowded with Bahians and tourists alike. You absolutely must haggle and bargain for the best deals. Consistently impressive were the public services. The city and the beaches were very clean at all times. There were teams of people walking and picking up trash and refuse of the streets. They were always noticeable with the red jump suits on the beach raking and sifting the sand, picking up trash and emptying the trash bins. It was clean every day 24 hours.I was curiously impressed with the public bus system. I noted it is one of the best organized and operated I have seen world-wide. They are the typical large coach buses and mini vans with a twist. You enter the back of the bus and pay cash to an attendant and slip through a turnstile. The cost on regular buses is $R2,00 and the express luxury buses are $R4,00 (1 and 2 dollars respectively) Notable was the fact handicapped, disabled, pregnant and street vendors ride for free they simply enter the front of the bus and have a seat. The rides are smooth and very fast. Buses run very frequently and 24 hours. The cost was extremely reasonable considering cabs charged $R50,00 for the same trip ($25.00 USD). There is not a system of transfers, one simply pays again. Each bus has a list on the front of the bus stating which stops they make so it was relatively easy to travel by bus. Note in Brazil money is written $R00,00 not in the typical $00.00 USD form we are familiar in the US. Food was varied and extremely tasty. In “Porto da Barra” referred to as Barra Beach the food was sophisticated, international and moderately priced. Basically it was nothing special to those accustomed to good world cuisine. The food in Pelourinho was very traditional ethnic Bahian food based on rich seafood and the abundance of indigenous West African ingredients and cooking styles. It was by far the best food I ate in Bahia and the least expensive. I tried the infamous “Arcareje” and found it to be very tasty. A cornmeal dumpling fried in coconut palm oil and then split in half, stuffed with a fiery pepper and herb relish topped with baby dried shrimp. It was bursting with spicy, smoky and fragrant flavors and an arousal to the senses! The other thing that struck my palate was the baby shrimp that were dried and salted “shell on”. The crunch and surprise of the soft shells was not bad just unexpected and different. Another dish I liked was a black eyed pea mash made with more of the fiery peppers and herbs and mashed okra which gave the dish a slimy but tasty pass over the palate elevated by the medium sized dried shrimp with shells on of course. These dishes were no more than $R5,00 or $2.50 USD. On my birthday I actually spent some time in the hood. I had a fantastic dinner of steamed shrimp, white rice and a spicy salad. It was really well prepared, seasoned and finger licking good. Easily a $100.00 USD meal in New York or L.A. but only $R22,00 or $11.00 USD. I spent some time afterwards watching the local high school band championships in the square. They battled, poppped dipped and spun all over the place. The family was out in full force, majorettes, "marching gurls" and all the other costumes that come with bands. The teams were really good and they "PERFORMED"!

Sunday, November 23, 2008

Respect the commandments of travel survival!

As seasoned travelers we continue to be amazed everytime we meet or hear about fellow travelers that have broken one, some or all of the basic commandments of travel and how they paid the price dearly. Experience counts, be it yours or someone else’s. A wise man once said “if you fall over the same log twice, you deserve to break your neck.” This is the basis of learning and respecting the basic commandments of travel and survival both domestically and internationally.
While we may be familiar with the larger picture of domestic travel because we live and interact in the country on a daily basis there are local intricacies that can easily change a fun filled adventure into a horrible excursion into hell. Check with your airline, bus or train company often or set up mobile alerts to be notified in the event of delays, cancellations or equipment changes. Check out the official website of the company to familiarize yourself with updated baggage and meal policies. Choose your seat wisely especially on longer trips. It is always funny to see very tall people in the smallest and most cramped seats on the plane. A great site to check out airline seats and equipment before the trip is the "Seat Guru". International travel is an entirely new and different experience unto itself. The basics are the same but need to be completed much sooner than in domestic travel. Remember to always arrive and check in a minimum of 3 hours before departure. Be sure you have your passport, visas and any other necessary documentation such as child custody papers and any medical perscriptions in order. Different languages, laws and customs are an adventure significant and special in itself. When personal preferences and challenges are added to the equation an eruption of mishaps and drama can occur. As the internet, the news and a host of other opportunities are available before you leave the comfort of your homes there is no reason anyone should not be familiar with the very basics. Know the basics: Why arrive in a new and exciting place without having first perfomed some research first. Language, currency and safety are the most important. Other simple but helpful bits of information are the people, neighborhoods and food. Before arriving, you should know what language is commonly spoken. The currency that is most widely used and what are the simple dangers and annoyances most often encountered in and around the arrival area. Very important, have an idea of how to get from the airport to your hotel or guest house.
If by taxi or public transportation have an idea of the fare, directions and rough time frame before beginning the journey- not all public transportation is what you expect or safe. If being picked up have a clear idea of where and when you should meet your party. Ask for a landmark. If taking public transportation These are all items of basic information that can be relatively quickly and accurately collected from updated guide books, web sites and travel blogs. Some of the best are Lonely Planet, Rough Guide, Trip Advisor and Virtual Tourist. They all have suggestions, local facts and recent reviews of fellow travelers. A nice start to any adventure is creating a small index sized cheat sheet with needed basic information on it. The name, address and phone number of the place you are staying (when possible I always tape a business card from the hotel directly on my cheat sheet so if I encounter language difficulties I can just point to the card). Other information on your cheat sheet should be the address and phone number of your consulate. Registration with the consulate is a matter of personal preference. As a Peace Corps volunteer in Haiti I registered with the American Consulate because of the volatility of the country but in my more than 80 visits to the Dominican Republic I have never registered with the consulate but I know where it is and have the phone number in case of an emergency. Just before leaving for the airport check the official website of the place you are traveling and the state department website for traveler’s advisories to get the most updated information and money exchange rate of the day. I often plan ahead and set aside the money I intend to initially exchange and cab fare before leaving home. The remainder of my money and credit cards I stash in the special pockets I had sewn inside my pants or my money belt. Money, credit and cash:The surest way to end up in the fiery flames of “trip gone to hell” is to walk around with large wads of cash in large bills. Dumber is to walk around flashing the large bills. Remember the local beer guy or taxi driver in your neighborhood that doesn’t like to handle large bills in a society of counterfeit and phony money. This is true of communities all over the world. Many places are hungry for American dollars and Euros but most are not willing to change or handle larger denominations. Remember bills smaller than 50 are the general rule of thumb and the most valuable. Insist on smaller bills when exchanging money and getting money back from purchases. Do not carry all of your money in one pocket, purse or pouch. Carry only the amount you need for the day and then divide your money into a smaller amount kept in the fairly obvious place so if robbed, pick pocketed or bamboozled by the police you will only loose “your small stash” as opposed to everything. Never pull out large sums in public no matter how safe you think you are. You might be king of the block back home but that’s just it. YOU ARE NOT AT HOME! Don’t argue with the police: This tends to be less of a problem domestically not withstanding a few ordinance differences locality to locality such as public drinking. This can be as extreme and different as drinking and open containers being allowed in public (New Orleans) to the extreme of no drinking or open containers allowed in public period (Los Angeles and New York). Internationally this can be a living hell. Remember you are in a different country and the rules are in their favor not yours. Unless you speak the language and are familiar with the customs with the expertise of a native “don’t argue with the cops”. Don’t try to be impressive and show you can speak the language. This can give the perception that you understand the culture and automatically give up any tourist immunity that you may get. Unlike our American police, police in other parts of the world (police and the military are often one in the same) are taught to take immediate action as opposed to discussing who is right. The perception in many countries of the world is that Americans are filthy rich slobs who have tons of money to just throw around so the police who make pennies for a monthly salary (300 USD) are not interested in who stole what from whom, or if you didn’t know he or she was under the legal age.Arguing will only get you hauled off to the police station or in the extreme worse beaten to a pulp, robbed and left in some dark secluded part of town. In many cases a dumb tourist look on your face and I don’t speak the language will get you a verbal warning and you will be on your way. In cases of corrupt cops there will be some type of fine or scam for some money. Usually a driving offense or public lewdness, then it is up to your slickness to cheaply work your way out of the problem. Use your small stash not the larger one! In more serious cases such as drugs or sex with a minor, you should let them arrest you and then call your consulate immediately. You know the number you wrote down on your cheat sheet you made the first day of your trip.Dangers and Annoyances: There are inherent dangers and annoyances that come with the very nature of travel and tourism. Knowing is half the battle. Other than the smack you in the face obvious scams remember to not walk around wearing expensive or expensive looking costume jewelry. Necklaces, earrings, expensive watches, and bracelets etc. are not to be worn except when going out to an upscale chic event or party. Your “bling bling” is an attention grabber and will set you up to be robbed, mugged and or killed in certain areas. Keep it on the down low to be safe! The same rules apply to cell phones. Never leave your cell phone attached to your hip. Especially in certain Latin and South American countries where it is very popular to ride by on motor bikes and snatch phone right off the waist bands of unsuspecting tourists and locals alike.
If you feel uncomfortable or plan to check out the sites solo use a disposable camera and buy a cheap $5.00 watch off the street vendor before leaving home.